The Red Dirt Road

The process of buying bus tickets is also something quite interesting, and a very inefficient process. The day before, you must go and buy your ticket, but this is a two step process. The first is to go early in the morning and put your name on the list. I made it there for 7:40am, and it was “sold out” (I’ve been told some people camp out to get on the Tamale-Wa bus). After talking to the man for a little bit, I learn that he had blocked out some sections, and convinced him to give me the two seats I needed (for me and the in-country director). The next step was then to return later that afternoon to pay for and pick up the physical ticket. I returned at 1pm as told, but the conductor was not yet there. I was told to wait “small time” for him. Since the bus station is at the market, I went and bought a pair of runners (since I stupidly left mine in Canada). I was impressed that I was quickly able to find a pair of Adidas in my favorite model (which was discontinued in Canada about a year or two ago), and ended up paying 8 GH Cedis for them. (0.85 CDN=1 cedi). I think they were mostly new, it is hard to tell since it is just so dusty and dirty here, but they didn’t look worn at all. In any event, those are pretty darn cheap shoes, and my feet were super happy today. After the shoes were purchased I returned to the ticket booth yet again, and was told to wait another “small time” for him. Wayne (my coach) found a bench and proceeded to wait a “small time”, which really, was a long and inefficient time. Eventually though, he arrived and we were able to get the tickets.

The bus was scheduled to leave at 5 am this morning, and we were told to be there at 4 am. Understanding Ghanaian bus times, we arrive at 445, eventually get my bag onto the bus (which cost 3 GH cd), and into our seats. The bus left at 530, which is pretty darn “punctual” so I hear.

The road from Tamale to Wa is known as the worst road in Ghana. Indeed, I might say it is just that. While Tamale and Wa are two major cities, the “highway” between them is mostly dirt. Bathurst Street (Toronto) or (before it was fixed) Twelve Mile Coulee (Calgary) have got nothing on this road. Possibly parts of the Forestry Trunk Road might be on par with the better pieces. They grade the road twice a year, once before the rainy season starts, and once when it is completed. Seeing as we are nearing the end of the rainy season the road is characterized by ruts, crevasses, lakes, and lots of bumps. At some points the driver would drive in the ditch, through the brush, instead of on the road. Whenever we drove through a puddle, all I could think about was my bag in the underbelly of the bus.

We eventually reached Wa, two hours later than anticipated due to the slow speed we were forced to take. However, we arrived, I collected my bag which has now been christened in Ghanaian dirt and mud. Sarah and I met Spencer (the JF) I will be replacing, and Stacey (a summer JF who will be staying on until fall). Sarah and I then went to the Regional MoFA office to see if the director was there. He wasn’t when he arrived, but he arrived before we left. I had the opportunity to be introduced to him. Early tomorrow morning, Spencer and I will head back to the regional office to hitch a ride up to Lawra. MoFA has monthly (or sometimes just quarterly, depending on the funds available) regional reporting meetings, and in the Upper West, they host them in a different district each month. Tomorrow’s is in Lawra, and because we were fortunate to learn that last minute, we were offered a ride. I’m pretty excited to get to avoid another bus ride. I won’t be contributing to this meeting, but it will be a good opportunity to learn the current state of the Upper West.

I’m still a little nervous about my actual work (not to mention what my final living conditions may be). However, I have to keep reminding myself that this is exactly how I feel each time I start a new consulting role. I always manage to figure it out, so hopefully this time will be no exception.